EssilorLuxottica slides as Bernstein voices pessimism over smart glasses
EssilorLuxottica shares posted one of the sharpest declines on the CAC 40 at the close of the Paris Bourse on Friday, weighed down by unfavorable comments from Bernstein. The brokerage expressed concern over the growing prominence of the eyewear specialist's AI-equipped glasses business. By the end of trading, the stock was down 2.9%, while the CAC 40 fell 0.9%.
In a note released during the day, Bernstein's analysts expressed concern that EssilorLuxottica is now being valued like a tech company, with its share price trading at over 30 times earnings. This comes as investors remain convinced that the smart glasses developed in partnership with Meta will create significant long-term shareholder value.
The brokerage acknowledges that these are high-cost products capable of boosting revenue, and that the group has secured a genuine head start by being one of the first to enter the segment.
However, this digital revolution also carries significant risks, adds the SG subsidiary, which fears that these smart glasses could eventually cannibalize the group's so-called traditional eyewear.
Early warning signs
Bernstein is already beginning to observe some warning signs: at the end of 2025, sales in physical stores slowed significantly compared to wholesale sales made to retail partners.
Another cause for concern, according to analysts, is that EssilorLuxottica could find itself at a disadvantage compared to tech giants in a segment where customers are not just looking for stylish frames, but primarily for high-performance software and apps.
The real danger for EssilorLuxottica, they add, is that the company's historical strengthsits brand, design capabilities, vertical integration, and global retail presencerisk being replicated.
From their perspective, tech companies can partner with luxury brands, use Chinese manufacturers for frames, collaborate on lens cutting, and sell their products directly online.
"If the group does not quickly find new ways to generate profit, its vast network of boutiques could become a burden," Bernstein warns.
"We are not headed toward a slow decline like that of the Swiss watch industry, but toward a head-on war against Big Tech that risks deflating the share price," the research firm cautioned.
EssilorLuxottica is a global leader in the design, manufacture and distribution of ophthalmic lenses, frames and sunglasses. Formed in 2018, the company brings together the complementary expertise of two industry pioneers, one in advanced lens technology and the other in the craftsmanship of iconic eyewear, to set new industry standards for vision care and the consumer experience around it. Influential eyewear brands including Ray-Ban and Oakley, lens technology brands including Varilux® and Transitions®, and world-class retail brands including Sunglass Hut and LensCrafters are part of the EssilorLuxottica family.
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